Magome-juku
A post town along a paved slope, and the birthplace of Shimazaki Toson.
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A post town along a paved slope, and the birthplace of Shimazaki Toson.
The only Edo-period magistrate's office still standing anywhere in Japan, proof that Hida was ruled directly by the shogunate.
Merchant houses made rich by washi. More udatsu firewalls survive here than anywhere.
Toyo Ito's lattice of thin timber spans the whole hall; fabric 'globes' divide air and light instead of air-conditioning.
A wholesalers' quarter on the river, its lattice fronts once fronting the paper and lantern trades.
A merchant house whose massive beam frame was deliberately left exposed to display the Hida carpenters' skill.
A brewer's house next door, its slender members latticed and lit from a high window so the frame reads as pattern.
In the Nara period Hida paid its tax in carpenters sent to the capital; that lineage runs through everything built here.
A canal of carp running beside white storehouses, the town regulating even the colour of its signs.
Roofs pitched near 60 degrees against the snow, rethatched by the whole village working together under an old mutual-aid system.
Spring water is channelled past every door for washing and firefighting, with strict rules on the order of use.
Below one of Japan's three great mountain castles, a merchant street running 1.3 kilometres.
Gassho houses moved from a valley about to be dammed; visitors can climb into the lofts built for silkworms.
A whole town preserving its Taisho-era offices and clinics, keeping one layer of provincial modernity intact.
Isozaki threaded long galleries down a valley slope, making a central apparatus for the pottery district.
Where Basho ended The Narrow Road; a town of springs, its river landing steps and stone lantern still in place.
A town built around a mine, its company housing stepped up the slope beside the tunnel mouths.
A single track following one valley, so track, river and cherry trees line up and the journey becomes the viewing.