Gifu City Museum of History
On the castle town Nobunaga built, with his free-market street reconstructed at full size to be walked through.
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On the castle town Nobunaga built, with his free-market street reconstructed at full size to be walked through.
Toyo Ito's lattice of thin timber spans the whole hall; fabric 'globes' divide air and light instead of air-conditioning.
Mino paper stretched so thin the bamboo ribs show through when the lantern is lit.
Most of Japan's paper umbrellas came from here; looked up into, the threads binding the ribs form a geometric pattern.
A wholesalers' quarter on the river, its lattice fronts once fronting the paper and lantern trades.
Japan's only public museum devoted to contemporary ceramics, inside Isozaki's Ceramic Park.
Terunobu Fujimori shaped the building like the clay pit itself, its walls studded with tiles so the architecture is the specimen.
Sherds from the kilns that fired Shino and Oribe - technique read from the failures rather than the finished pots.
From Momoyama tea ware to modern export porcelain, including the designs made purely for foreign markets.
The man who found a Shino sherd in these hills and proved Momoyama tea ware was made in Mino, not Kyoto.
Paper made here survives in the 8th-century Shosoin; fibres crossed both ways make it thin, even and hard to tear.
Paper light sculptures set out along the old street, with the town's own lamps switched off for the night.
Smiths forge in public here on set days - the sparks and the sound included in what is shown.
The monk Enku carved with a hatchet as he walked Japan; over 5,000 survive, smiling out of raw split wood.
Floats into which the Hida craftsmen poured everything - carving, lacquer, metalwork and clockwork puppets.
A merchant house whose massive beam frame was deliberately left exposed to display the Hida carpenters' skill.
A brewer's house next door, its slender members latticed and lit from a high window so the frame reads as pattern.
Carved from yew and never painted, so the wood's red and white heartwood does the work and deepens with age.
Clear lacquer that reveals rather than hides the grain, so choosing the wood decides the finished piece.
In the Nara period Hida paid its tax in carpenters sent to the capital; that lineage runs through everything built here.
A canal of carp running beside white storehouses, the town regulating even the colour of its signs.
A small municipal museum built around glass, with a programme for local makers.
Roofs pitched near 60 degrees against the snow, rethatched by the whole village working together under an old mutual-aid system.