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Down or synthetic fill — which is warmer? How to choose a winter coat in Japan

This answer is a draft. It stays unpublished until legal review and source verification are complete.

The answerWeight for weight, down is warmer and lighter than synthetic fill and compresses smaller. But it loses much of its warmth when wet and is more work to wash and care for. Synthetic fill (polyester) keeps most of its warmth when wet, washes easily at home and costs less, but is heavier and bulkier for the same warmth. For commuting or walking around the Tokyo area (0–10°C / 32–50°F), synthetic fill or about 150 g of down is enough. For the snow country or long hours outdoors, choose high-fill-power down; where rain and wet snow are common, choose synthetic or water-repellent down. "Fill power" is how much the down lofts (quality); "down weight" is how much is in the coat (quantity). Warmth depends on both.

Winter coat labels in Japan carry numbers that are hard to compare: "Down 90% / Feather 10%", "Filling: polyester", "Fill power 700". Japan's winters also vary enormously by region, so the right coat for a Tokyo commute is not the right coat for outdoor Hokkaido. Here is what the numbers mean and how to choose by use.

Down vs. synthetic fill

ItemDown (feathers)Synthetic fill (polyester)
Warmth for weightWarmest for the same weight. LightAbout 60–80% of down. Heavier for the same warmth
When wetLoses much of its warmth (the down collapses). Slow to dryKeeps most of its warmth when wet. Dries fast
PackingCompresses smallBulky
WashingHand wash, special detergent, and tumble-dry to break up the clumps (see separate article). Dry cleaning ¥2,000–4,000Many can go in the washing machine
Lifespan10 years or more with care. Down shifts and leaksFlattens in 5–10 years (loses its recovery after compression)
PriceHigh (from ¥20,000 as a guide; huge variation by brand)Low (from ¥5,000)
Animal welfare / labelsCertifications such as RDS (Responsible Down Standard)Not animal-derived
Best forCold regions, dry cold, long hours outdoors, travel (light)Rain and wet snow, commuting (hot trains), frequent washing, children

Reading the label

LabelMeaningGuide
Down 90% / Feather 10%The share of down (the fluffy clusters) in the filling. More down = lighter and warmer80/20 or better is normal quality. 50/50 is mostly feather and heavy
Fill power (FP)The volume one ounce (about 28 g) of down lofts to, in cubic inches. A measure of quality600+ is good, 700–800 high quality, 900 the top grade. Not a mandatory label in Japan; brands show it voluntarily
Down weight (fill weight)The weight of down in the coat (g)City 100–150 g, cold regions 200–300 g. High FP with little down is not warm
Shell water resistance"Water-repellent finish", "waterproof rating X mm"For rain, 5,000 mm or more, or choose synthetic
Household Goods Quality LabellingType and blend of filling (down as "Down X% / Feather X%"), shell and lining fabric, care labelMandatory on clothing sold in Japan
[Verify] The warmth ratio for synthetic fill, the fill-power bands and the price ranges are general industry figures. Check the down-labelling rules under the Household Goods Quality Labelling Act with the Consumer Affairs Agency.

Misunderstanding 1|Anything with down is warm

Warmth = fill power (quality) × down weight (quantity). High FP with only 100 g inside is a light city jacket.

Misunderstanding 2|Synthetic fill is cheap and cold

In wet conditions, with frequent washing or on a train commute, synthetic is often the more sensible choice. It only loses to down on weight and packed size for the same warmth.

Misunderstanding 3|One thick coat gets you through winter

In Japan the gap between outdoors and indoors is often 20°C (36°F) or more, and a thick coat is a burden to carry indoors. A thin outer plus a mid-layer is more comfortable.

Misunderstanding 4|Down cannot be washed, so it has to go to the cleaner every year

If the label shows a hand-wash symbol, you can wash it at home (method in a separate article). Storing it unwashed does more harm: sweat and sebum degrade the down.

Misunderstanding 5|"Down 90%" means high quality

The down ratio describes the make-up of the filling; without fill power and fill weight you cannot tell how warm it is. Only with all three can you compare.

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Sources

https://www.caa.go.jp/policies/policy/representation/household_goods/guide/fiber/

https://www.jdfa.or.jp/

https://www.kokusen.go.jp/

⚠️ Editorial note: the source URLs above were identified by search. Our working environment cannot reach go.jp domains, so the contents have not been checked against the text. Verify every source before publication and record who checked it and when.

About this article

What we share here are ideas and everyday practices passed down among people living in Japan, together with general information drawn from public sources. They are not official recommendations, and they are not professional instruction. Practices vary between households and regions.

This is general information. Results vary from person to person and depend on your own conditions and surroundings.

Please decide for yourself, using your own judgement, whether any of this suits your situation. We cannot accept responsibility for any damage, loss or injury arising from following this article.

Follow the care label and the maker's instructions for any garment, shoe or bag. For expensive or sentimental items, ask a specialist cleaner or repairer.

Sources

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