What are the common misunderstandings about make-up primer?
This answer is a draft. It stays unpublished until legal review and source verification are complete.
"Do I actually need a primer?" is a frequent question in overseas communities. In Japan, primers (化粧下地, keshō shitaji) have become multi-purpose — sunscreen, colour correction and pore cover in one tube — so the question here is more often "which one do I pick?". This article sorts out what a primer does and how Japanese law classifies it.
What a primer does
| Role | What it does | Points to note |
|---|---|---|
| Adhesion and staying power | Balances sebum and dryness to give foundation an even base | Choose by skin type (a sebum-absorbing type for oily areas, a moisturising type for dry areas) |
| Colour correction | Redness → green, dullness → purple/pink, yellowish dullness → blue tones | The idea is to cancel with a "complementary colour". Too much changes your whole complexion |
| Texture cover | Silicone-based products that fill pores and fine lines (for spot use) | Thick layers are a cause of make-up breaking down |
| UV protection | Many primers carry an SPF/PA rating | The effect depends on the amount applied (about 0.8 g for the whole face is the measurement standard). If you use it in place of sunscreen, use the full amount |
- Primer is a cosmetic under the Pharmaceuticals and Medical Devices Act (Japan's cosmetics and drugs law), so the effects it may claim are limited to a list of 56 items ("conditions the skin", "prevents sunburn", etc.). "Makes pores disappear" is not permitted.
- The SPF/PA rating of a sunscreen primer is based on the measurement standards of the Japan Cosmetic Industry Association (JCIA). The SPF of primer plus foundation does not add up (see the article on SPF in foundation).
- Japanese primers are finely divided into "tone-up", "anti-sebum" and "glow" types, and using different types by zone (a sebum-control type on the T-zone only) is common practice among people living in Japan.
[Verify] Check the 56 items against MHLW notice Yakushoku-hatsu 0721 No. 1, and the SPF measurement standard against the JCIA's published materials.
Misunderstanding 1｜If you wear sunscreen you don't need primer, or if you wear primer you don't need sunscreen
Both can be true — if you use enough. If you use sunscreen as your primer, apply about 0.8 g over the whole face. If you rely on a single primer, you need the same amount. The usual way of spreading a small amount of primer thinly will not give you the SPF on the label.
Misunderstanding 2｜Primer goes evenly over the whole face
Dividing the face by zone is how people in Japan use it. A sebum-control type on the T-zone, a moisturising type on the cheeks, colour correction under the eyes, and so on. The total amount is roughly the size of one pearl as a general guide.
Misunderstanding 3｜Colour-correcting primer makes skin whiter
It works by cancelling with a complementary colour; too much and your face looks chalky or dull. Use a small amount on the areas that bother you only.
Misunderstanding 4｜Put foundation on straight after primer
Leaving 1–2 minutes for the primer to settle is generally described as making foundation less likely to slide. Let a sunscreen primer dry first.
Misunderstanding 5｜Primer is a burden on the skin, so give your skin a rest
Primer is a cosmetic, and the idea of "resting" the skin has no medical definition. If you get skin problems, review the ingredients and the amount, and check how you remove it (see the article on cleansing).
---
Sources
- Ministry of Health, Labour and Welfare (MHLW), "Revision of the scope of efficacy claims for cosmetics" [化粧品の効能の範囲の改正について] (Yakushoku-hatsu 0721 No. 1)
https://www.mhlw.go.jp/file/06-Seisakujouhou-11120000-Iyakushokuhinkyoku/kesyouhin_hanni_20111.pdf
- Japan Cosmetic Industry Association (JCIA), "SPF measurement standard" and "Voluntary standard on PA labelling" [SPF測定法基準／PA表示に関する自主基準]
https://www.jcia.org/user/business/spf
- Ministry of the Environment, "UV Environmental Health Manual 2020" [紫外線環境保健マニュアル2020]
https://www.env.go.jp/chemi/uv/uv_manual.html
⚠️ Editorial note: the source URLs above were identified by search. Our working environment cannot reach go.jp domains, so the contents have not been checked against the text. Verify every source before publication and record who checked it and when.
About this article
What we share here are ideas and everyday practices passed down among people living in Japan, together with general information drawn from public sources. They are not official recommendations, and they are not professional instruction. Practices vary between households and regions.
This is general information. Results vary from person to person and depend on your own conditions and surroundings.
Please decide for yourself, using your own judgement, whether any of this suits your situation. We cannot accept responsibility for any damage, loss or injury arising from following this article.
Cosmetics are not medicines and are not meant to diagnose, heal or prevent any condition. If your skin reacts, stop using the product and see a dermatologist.
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