Value Village / Beauty

How far can I rely on acne cosmetics and over-the-counter acne products in Japan?

This answer is a draft. It stays unpublished until legal review and source verification are complete.

The answerCosmetics and quasi-drugs (a Japanese category between cosmetics and medicines) can only go as far as "helping to prevent acne"; they cannot clear up acne that has already formed. OTC medicines are for short-term care of mild cases. If you have 10 or more red spots, marks are starting to remain, or it has lasted more than 3 months — any one of these — go to a dermatology clinic. The Japanese Dermatological Association's guidelines describe prescription topical medicines (adapalene, benzoyl peroxide and others) as the central options, and shop-bought products cannot replace them.

Acne is a common skin problem: more than 90% of Japanese people are generally described as experiencing it at some point. In Japan, cosmetics, quasi-drugs, over-the-counter (OTC) medicines and the dermatology clinic each play a different role. If you mix them up, you can easily end up feeling that "nothing I use works".

The roles of the four options

CategoryWhat it can do (legal position)Suited to
CosmeticsCleanse the skin and moisturise itPrevention and daily care
Quasi-drugs ("medicated", 薬用 yakuyō)Claims are limited to "helps prevent acne" and "helps prevent rough skin" (in line with the Ministry of Health, Labour and Welfare's list of 56 permitted claims)Prevention; daily care for people who get repeated spots
OTC medicinesTopical products containing ibuprofen piconol, sulphur, resorcinol and similar. Short-term care for mild spotsA few mild red spots
Dermatology clinicPrescriptions such as adapalene, benzoyl peroxide and topical antibiotics. Highly recommended options in the guidelinesMany red spots, marks remaining, lasting more than 3 months
[Verify] The guideline recommendations are based on the 2023 edition (a revision of the 2017 one). Check the current approval status of the OTC active ingredients before publication.

Misunderstanding 1|If I use acne cosmetics my acne will disappear

Cosmetics and quasi-drugs can only "help prevent". The law does not allow them to claim any effect on acne that has already formed. Some people do see improvement, but that comes from prevention and keeping the skin clean.

Misunderstanding 2|It is not serious enough for a doctor

Acne is covered by Japanese national health insurance at dermatology clinics. The topical medicines the guidelines recommend are not sold over the counter, and seeing a doctor early is the shortest route to avoiding marks.

Misunderstanding 3|The more thoroughly I wash, the better

Twice a day is the guide; more than that tends to backfire. Scrubbing also makes inflammation worse.

Misunderstanding 4|Squeezing out the core makes it settle faster

This is the classic way to spread inflammation deeper and create a scar. If a spot really bothers you, a dermatologist can perform comedo extraction (面皰圧出, menpō asshutsu) as a clinical procedure.

Misunderstanding 5|Chocolate and crisps give you acne

No direct causal link with any specific food has been clearly shown. There are, however, studies linking high-sugar diets with worsening. Sleep, washing and keeping your hands off your face bring more noticeable results than extreme dieting.

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Sources

https://www.dermatol.or.jp/dermatol/wp-content/uploads/xoops/files/guideline/zasou2023.pdf

https://www.mhlw.go.jp/

https://www.dermatol.or.jp/qa/qa9/

⚠️ Editorial note: the source URLs above were identified by search. Our working environment cannot reach go.jp domains, so the contents have not been checked against the text. Verify every source before publication and record who checked it and when.

About this article

What we share here are ideas and everyday practices passed down among people living in Japan, together with general information drawn from public sources. They are not official recommendations, and they are not professional instruction. Practices vary between households and regions.

This is general information. Results vary from person to person and depend on your own conditions and surroundings.

Please decide for yourself, using your own judgement, whether any of this suits your situation. We cannot accept responsibility for any damage, loss or injury arising from following this article.

Cosmetics are not medicines and are not meant to diagnose, heal or prevent any condition. If your skin reacts, stop using the product and see a dermatologist.

Sources

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