Value Village / Beauty

Are there different kinds of dark spots? Which ones fade with brightening cosmetics, and which need a dermatologist?

This answer is a draft. It stays unpublished until legal review and source verification are complete.

The answerThere are five main kinds. ① Solar lentigo (老人性色素斑, sun-induced, sharp-edged brown patches — the most common): prevention is UV protection; once formed, cosmetics do little, and laser at a dermatology clinic is effective. ② Melasma (肝斑, symmetrical hazy brown on the cheekbones, women in their 30s–50s): worsened by friction and UV, laser is often contraindicated, and the basics are oral tranexamic acid plus no-rubbing skincare. ③ Post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (marks from acne, insect bites, burns): fades with time, helped by brightening actives and UV protection. ④ Freckles (そばかす): hereditary, scattered small dots, laser can lighten them. ⑤ Seborrhoeic keratosis (slightly raised spots, "age warts"): cosmetics do nothing; a dermatologist removes them. The approved claim for brightening cosmetics of quasi-drug grade (医薬部外品, a Japanese category between cosmetics and medicines) is "suppresses melanin production and prevents spots and freckles" — prevention, not erasing.

The brown patches lumped together as "dark spots" (シミ, shimi) in Japan come in at least five kinds, each with a different cause and a different answer. Some respond to brightening (bihaku, 美白) cosmetics; some hardly change with any cosmetic; some get darker with the wrong care. This article gives the signs for telling them apart and a realistic approach to each.

Kinds of dark spot and what to do

KindAppearanceMain causeWhat cosmetics can doWhat a dermatologist can do
Solar lentigo (老人性色素斑, 日光黒子)Sharp-edged brown patches, a few mm to a few cm. Cheeks, temples, backs of hands. The most commonAccumulated UV (rises from the 40s but appears in the 20s too)Prevention (sunscreen). Existing spots hardly fadeQ-switched laser, IPL light therapy can remove them. Self-pay (not covered by health insurance)
Melasma (肝斑)Symmetrical, hazy light-brown patches on the cheekbones, also forehead and around the mouthFemale hormones, friction, UV. Women in their 30s–50s; pregnancy and the pill make it likelier. May fade after menopauseNo rubbing, UV protection, brightening actives (e.g. tranexamic acid)Oral tranexamic acid (usually self-pay), topicals. Strong lasers can make it worse and are often contraindicated
Post-inflammatory hyperpigmentationBrown marks left by acne, insect bites, burns, rashes, frictionInflammation increases melaninUV protection and brightening actives help. Fades naturally over several months to a yearTopicals or laser if needed
Freckles (そばかす, 雀卵斑)Small brown dots scattered over the nose and cheeks, from childhoodHereditary. UV darkens themUV protection so they do not darkenLaser can lighten them
Seborrhoeic keratosis (脂漏性角化症, "age warts")Slightly raised, rough brown-to-black spotsAgeing, UVCosmetics do nothingLiquid nitrogen, laser, excision (some covered by health insurance)
ADM (acquired dermal melanocytosis)Symmetrical grey-to-bluish patches on the cheeksMelanocytes in the dermisCosmetics do nothingLaser (several sessions)
[Verify] Check the classification of dark spots and the procedures against Japanese Dermatological Association and Japanese Society of Aesthetic Dermatology material; costs are typical clinic figures. Check the permitted claims for brightening actives against MHLW quasi-drug approval information.

Misunderstanding 1|Keep using brightening cosmetics and the spots will disappear

The approved claim is "prevents", and solar lentigo and seborrhoeic keratosis hardly change with cosmetics. Prevention and support for post-inflammatory marks is the realistic range.

Misunderstanding 2|Any spot can be lasered off

Melasma can worsen under a strong laser, so diagnosis comes first. Each kind needs a different approach.

Misunderstanding 3|Massage to improve circulation lightens spots

Friction is one of the classic causes of melasma and darkening getting worse. Do not rub the face.

Misunderstanding 4|Sunscreen is only needed in summer

Solar lentigo comes from UV accumulated over the whole year, and UV is present in winter and on cloudy days. The daily habit is the core of prevention.

Misunderstanding 5|More spots are just age, nothing to be done

Options for prevention and medical care keep growing. But a spot that grows fast, has an irregular shape or bleeds may be skin cancer — do not leave it; see a dermatologist.

---

Sources

https://www.dermatol.or.jp/qa/

https://www.dermatol.or.jp/uploads/uploads/files/guideline/

https://www.mhlw.go.jp/

⚠️ Editorial note: the source URLs above were identified by search. Our working environment cannot reach go.jp domains, so the contents have not been checked against the text. Verify every source before publication and record who checked it and when.

About this article

What we share here are ideas and everyday practices passed down among people living in Japan, together with general information drawn from public sources. They are not official recommendations, and they are not professional instruction. Practices vary between households and regions.

This is general information. Results vary from person to person and depend on your own conditions and surroundings.

Please decide for yourself, using your own judgement, whether any of this suits your situation. We cannot accept responsibility for any damage, loss or injury arising from following this article.

Cosmetics are not medicines and are not meant to diagnose, heal or prevent any condition. If your skin reacts, stop using the product and see a dermatologist.

Sources

Tell us if this has changed

Approved contributions keep the contributor's name, shown in five languages.

Related questions

Other languages:日本語 / 简体中文 / 繁體中文 / 한국어

Value Village is not a government body. Always confirm procedures on the official site.
Written by Value Village from public sources. Nothing here is reproduced from another site.