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What are the common misunderstandings about eyelash serums?

This answer is a draft. It stays unpublished until legal review and source verification are complete.

The answerThe biggest misunderstanding is "an eyelash serum makes lashes longer or thicker." An eyelash serum sold as a cosmetic may claim only to "protect lashes, moisturise them and give them body and resilience"; "longer" or "more lashes" cannot be claimed (hair growth is the territory of medicines). The skin around the eyes is thin, and this product draws many complaints of rashes, red eyes and dark pigmentation.

Eyelash serums (まつげ美容液, matsuge biyōeki) spread rapidly in Japan and are known abroad as products that "make lashes grow." In Japan, however, eye problems from these products have been reported in large numbers to the National Consumer Affairs Center of Japan, which issued a warning in 2015.

Categories and cautions

CategoryProductWhat it may claimCaution
CosmeticMost over-the-counter "eyelash serums"Gives lashes body and resilience, protects them, moisturises them (within the 56 permitted claims)Cannot claim "longer", "more" or "grows"
Medicine (prescription)Topical bimatoprost (a prescription drug for eyelash hypotrichosis, i.e. sparse lashes)Eyelash growth (an approved indication)Doctor's prescription. Side effects: pigmentation, red eyes, change in iris colour, effect on eye pressure
Imported "growth" productsSome contain prostaglandin analoguesIn Japan these count as medicinal ingredients and may not be put in cosmeticsProblems with personally imported products have been reported
  • The National Consumer Affairs Center of Japan (2015) announced a rise in complaints of rashes, swelling, red eyes and pigmentation around the eyes caused by eyelash serums. Complaints rose sharply between fiscal 2010 and fiscal 2015 (about 300 injury reports in 2015).
  • The causes cited are ingredients (certain humectants and preservatives), application that lets the product into the eye, and prostaglandin analogues in imported products.
  • The skin around the eyes is generally described as the thinnest on the body (about 0.6 mm) and is easily irritated.
[Verify] Check the year and number of complaints against the National Consumer Affairs Center document on injuries from eyelash serums, and bimatoprost's category and side effects against the package insert (PMDA).

Misunderstanding 1|Eyelash serum makes lashes grow

A cosmetic cannot claim "growth", and you should not expect it. Its range is body, resilience and protection. If you want longer lashes, that is a prescription medicine, with an explanation of side effects.

Misunderstanding 2|The imported "growth" products work better

Prostaglandin analogues are medicinal ingredients in Japan, with known side effects of pigmentation, red eyes and iris discolouration. Eye problems from personally imported products have been reported.

Misunderstanding 3|It is a cosmetic, so it is safe if it gets in your eye

On the mucous membrane of the eye it causes irritation and redness. Apply a very small amount at the roots, keep it out of the eye, and rinse it out if it gets in. Take contact lenses out first.

Misunderstanding 4|The more you apply every day, the better

Excess runs into the eye and causes eyelid rashes. Once or twice a day, a small amount.

Misunderstanding 5|Redness and darkening go away once you get used to it

Redness, itching, swelling or darkening of the eyelids may be contact dermatitis or pigmentation. Stop using it and see an ophthalmologist or a dermatology clinic (both covered by Japanese health insurance).

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Sources

  • National Consumer Affairs Center of Japan, "Injuries from eyelash serums are increasing" [まつ毛美容液による危害が増加] (2015)

https://www.kokusen.go.jp/news/data/n-20150917_1.html

  • Ministry of Health, Labour and Welfare, "Revision of the scope of cosmetic efficacy claims" [化粧品の効能の範囲の改正について] (Yakushoku-hatsu 0721 No. 1)

https://www.mhlw.go.jp/file/06-Seisakujouhou-11120000-Iyakushokuhinkyoku/kesyouhin_hanni_20111.pdf

  • Pharmaceuticals and Medical Devices Agency (PMDA), package insert for topical bimatoprost solution (eyelash hypotrichosis) [ビマトプロスト外用液(睫毛貧毛症)添付文書]

https://www.pmda.go.jp/

⚠️ Editorial note: the source URLs above were identified by search. Our working environment cannot reach go.jp domains, so the contents have not been checked against the text. Verify every source before publication and record who checked it and when.

About this article

What we share here are ideas and everyday practices passed down among people living in Japan, together with general information drawn from public sources. They are not official recommendations, and they are not professional instruction. Practices vary between households and regions.

This is general information. Results vary from person to person and depend on your own conditions and surroundings.

Please decide for yourself, using your own judgement, whether any of this suits your situation. We cannot accept responsibility for any damage, loss or injury arising from following this article.

Cosmetics are not medicines and are not meant to diagnose, heal or prevent any condition. If your skin reacts, stop using the product and see a dermatologist.

Sources

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