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What are the common misunderstandings about caring for oily skin?

This answer is a draft. It stays unpublished until legal review and source verification are complete.

The answerThe biggest misunderstanding is "sebum is the enemy, so strip it all away." Sebum also protects the skin. Strip too much and secretion is generally described as increasing to make up for the dryness — a state often called "inner dry" (インナードライ, a Japanese term for skin that is oily on the surface but dehydrated underneath). The basic approach is: wash no more than twice a day, and never skip moisturising.

Shine and excess sebum are a particular worry in humid East Asia, and in overseas communities the question "is more washing better?" comes up again and again. In Japan there is a clear line between what a cosmetic may claim and what belongs to a dermatologist, and this article follows that line. It also introduces a few everyday items, such as oil-blotting paper, that you will find in any Japanese drugstore.

What to base your decision on

ItemDetails
How often to washTwice a day, morning and evening, is the usual guide. More than that tends to cause dryness
Face washWash with foam and rinse with lukewarm water (about 32–34°C / 90–93°F). Hot water strips too much sebum
MoisturisingDo not skip it. Many people choose low-oil gel or milky-lotion types
Sebum during the dayPress with oil-blotting paper (あぶらとり紙, aburatori-gami) or a tissue. Do not rub
Sebum and the seasonsSebum secretion is generally described as rising with temperature, so the problem worsens in summer
[Verify] Check the 56 items against MHLW notice Yakushoku-hatsu 0721 No. 1, and the guidelines against the Japanese Dermatological Association "Guidelines for the Management of Acne Vulgaris and Rosacea 2023".

Misunderstanding 1|Wash more often and the shine goes

Many people report that over-washing causes dryness and makes sebum more noticeable, not less. How you wash, and moisturising, matter more than how often.

Misunderstanding 2|Oily skin does not need moisturiser

Water and oil are separate things. When water is lacking, the surface is described as shining with sebum while the skin underneath is dry. Moisturising with a light, "refreshing" (さっぱり) type is the standard approach.

Misunderstanding 3|Blotting paper should take off all the oil

Taking too much leads to dryness. Most people press lightly on the T-zone only.

Misunderstanding 4|An alcohol toner to tighten the skin solves it

It may feel fresh for a moment, but alcohol can cause dryness and irritation. Whether it suits you varies from person to person.

Misunderstanding 5|Oily skin is just your constitution, so nothing helps

It changes with sleep, diet, season and hormones. If acne is involved, a dermatology clinic can prescribe medicines covered by health insurance. There is no need to keep struggling within the limits of cosmetics.

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Sources

https://www.mhlw.go.jp/file/06-Seisakujouhou-11120000-Iyakushokuhinkyoku/kesyouhin_hanni_20111.pdf

https://www.dermatol.or.jp/uploads/uploads/files/guideline/

https://www.dermatol.or.jp/qa/qa3/index.html

⚠️ Editorial note: the source URLs above were identified by search. Our working environment cannot reach go.jp domains, so the contents have not been checked against the text. Verify every source before publication and record who checked it and when.

About this article

What we share here are ideas and everyday practices passed down among people living in Japan, together with general information drawn from public sources. They are not official recommendations, and they are not professional instruction. Practices vary between households and regions.

This is general information. Results vary from person to person and depend on your own conditions and surroundings.

Please decide for yourself, using your own judgement, whether any of this suits your situation. We cannot accept responsibility for any damage, loss or injury arising from following this article.

Cosmetics are not medicines and are not meant to diagnose, heal or prevent any condition. If your skin reacts, stop using the product and see a dermatologist.

Sources

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