Value Village / Beauty

How do I get fewer split ends and breakage? Can a hair conditioner fix them?

This answer is a draft. It stays unpublished until legal review and source verification are complete.

The answerA split end or a broken hair is one whose cuticle has worn away, letting the inner cortex tear. Hair is dead cells, so it does not go back to how it was. A conditioner or hair mask only coats the surface for a while to improve feel and appearance; a split end can only be cut off. Prevention is the whole game: ① do not rub wet hair, and dry it promptly; ② hold the hairdryer 20 cm away and keep irons at 160°C or below; ③ brush dry hair, starting from the ends; ④ avoid UV; ⑤ colour and bleach less often; ⑥ trim 1–2 cm off the ends every 6–8 weeks. Do these six things and new split ends visibly decrease.

You look at your ends and they are split in two; short broken hairs stick out mid-length. Almost everyone has some split ends and breakage, and the advice you hear is divided between "repair them with a hair mask" and "the only answer is to cut". In Japan, the loanword "treatment" (トリートメント, torītomento) is simply the everyday name for a conditioner or hair mask, which adds to the confusion. Starting from how hair is built, we sort out what can and cannot be fixed, and how to stop making more.

Causes and what to do

CauseWhat happensWhat to do
Friction on wet hairWet hair has an open cuticle and only 70–80% of its dry strength. Rubbing with a towel or brushing wet hair peels the cuticle offPress out water, do not rub; wide-toothed comb on wet hair, from the ends; dry promptly
HeatHair protein starts to denature at around 130°C; moisture escapes rapidly and leaves hollowsHairdryer 20 cm away, never more than 3 seconds on one spot; irons 160°C or below, 2–3 seconds per section, not every day
Chemical processingColour, bleach and perms break the cuticle and the bonds inside. A single bleach damages most of the cuticleDo it less often (full colour once every 2–3 months), mostly root touch-ups, avoid heat and UV for a week afterwards
UV lightBreaks down protein and pigmentHat, parasol, UV spray for hair
BrushingDragging a hard brush through dry hair from the roots in one go rips through tanglesEnds → middle → roots, natural-bristle or cushion brush, not many times a day
Friction (pillow, collar, scarf)Rubbing during sleep; collars and scarves rubbing in winterSilk or satin pillowcase, tie long hair loosely to sleep, do not tuck hair inside a scarf
Nutrition and healthExtreme dieting, iron deficiency, after childbirthImproves with a normal diet. See a doctor about sudden changes
[Verify] The denaturation temperature of hair protein and the loss of strength in wet hair are standard figures from hair science. Check against material from the Japan Hair Science Association and the Japan Cosmetic Industry Association.

Misunderstanding 1|A hair mask fixes split ends

Hair is dead cells, and a split end does not go back. A conditioner or mask improves feel and appearance and helps prevent new splits. Split ends get cut.

Misunderstanding 2|Just hunt out the split ends and snip them

The hair around a split end has taken the same damage and is next in line. Trimming 1–2 cm off all the ends works better.

Misunderstanding 3|Air-drying is kindest to hair

The longer hair stays wet, the longer it takes friction with the cuticle open. Used correctly, a hairdryer is less damaging.

Misunderstanding 4|More brushing means more shine and fewer split ends

Excess brushing adds friction and creates split ends. Once or twice a day, from the ends, working tangles loose.

Misunderstanding 5|Switching to an expensive shampoo will solve it

How you dry, heat, brush and how often you colour matter far more than the shampoo. Fix the habits first.

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Sources

https://www.jcia.org/user/public/knowledge/usage

https://www.kamiken.org/

https://www.nite.go.jp/jiko/chuikanki/

⚠️ Editorial note: the source URLs above were identified by search. Our working environment cannot reach go.jp domains, so the contents have not been checked against the text. Verify every source before publication and record who checked it and when.

About this article

What we share here are ideas and everyday practices passed down among people living in Japan, together with general information drawn from public sources. They are not official recommendations, and they are not professional instruction. Practices vary between households and regions.

This is general information. Results vary from person to person and depend on your own conditions and surroundings.

Please decide for yourself, using your own judgement, whether any of this suits your situation. We cannot accept responsibility for any damage, loss or injury arising from following this article.

Cosmetics are not medicines and are not meant to diagnose, heal or prevent any condition. If your skin reacts, stop using the product and see a dermatologist.

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