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World Question Box / Beauty

What are the common misunderstandings about the difference between dermatology and cosmetic dermatology in Japan?

This answer is a draft. It stays unpublished until legal review and source verification are complete.

The answerThe biggest misunderstanding is "cosmetic dermatology is an upgraded version of dermatology." A dermatology clinic deals with diseases (acne, eczema, athlete's foot, atopic dermatitis and so on) under Japan's national health insurance; a cosmetic dermatology clinic deals with non-disease concerns (dark spots, wrinkles, sagging and so on) as private, self-paid care. The same "spot" may be covered by insurance if judged a disease, or self-paid if the purpose is cosmetic, and the clinic sets the price. Acne is covered by insurance, so you do not have to keep struggling with it using cosmetics.

"Do I take acne to a dermatologist (皮膚科, hifuka) or a cosmetic dermatologist (美容皮膚科, biyō hifuka)?" and "Can dark spots be dealt with on health insurance?" are hard to answer unless you know how Japanese healthcare works. Here we draw the line between insured care and private (self-paid) care, and mark where cosmetics stop.

Insured care versus private care

ItemDermatology (insured care)Cosmetic dermatology (private care)
ScopeDiseases: acne, eczema, atopic dermatitis, athlete's foot, warts, hives, alopecia, pathological pigmentation (some), birthmarks (some)Cosmetic concerns: spots, dullness, wrinkles, sagging, pores, brightening, hair removal (medical laser), acne scars
CostYou pay 30% (a first visit is a few thousand yen)Fully self-paid. The clinic sets the price (a few thousand yen to several hundred thousand yen)
CareApproved medicines and proceduresMay include unapproved medicines and equipment (at the doctor's discretion)
AdvertisingMedical Advertising GuidelinesMedical Advertising Guidelines (tightened 2018): definitive effect claims such as "absolutely safe", and before-and-after photos without conditions, are prohibited
Complaints—The National Consumer Affairs Center of Japan receives over 2,000 complaints a year about cosmetic medicine (contracts, results, side effects)
  • Acne (acne vulgaris) is covered by health insurance; topical medicines (adapalene, benzoyl peroxide, etc.) are prescribed under the Japanese Dermatological Association's 2023 guideline. This is a different domain from the cosmetic claim "helps prevent acne" (a quasi-drug claim).
  • Dark spots: melasma and solar lentigines are mostly cosmetic (self-paid), while some birthmarks such as naevus spilus and naevus of Ota are covered by insurance. The doctor decides.
  • Cosmetic-medicine complaints typically involve large contracts signed on the day of the consultation, exaggerated claims of effect, and side effects. The amendment to the Act on Specified Commercial Transactions that took effect on 1 December 2017 brought some cosmetic medicine within the cooling-off rules (contracts over 1 month and over ¥50,000).
[Verify] Check the scope of insurance coverage against the Ministry of Health, Labour and Welfare's fee schedule, the Medical Advertising Guidelines with the Ministry (2018), and the cooling-off rules with the Consumer Affairs Agency.

Misunderstanding 1|Cosmetic dermatology is dermatology, but better

A different purpose (disease or cosmetic) and a different payment system (insurance or self-paid). If you suspect a disease, start at a dermatology clinic.

Misunderstanding 2|Acne is something you fight with cosmetics

Acne is covered by insurance, and there are guideline-based medicines. If it keeps coming back or is inflamed, see a dermatologist. Cosmetics go only as far as "helps prevent".

Misunderstanding 3|All dark spots are self-paid

Some birthmarks are covered by insurance. Have a dermatologist confirm whether it is a disease first; if the purpose is cosmetic, then choose self-paid care.

Misunderstanding 4|Signing on the day is normal in cosmetic medicine

Do not decide on a large contract on the day of the consultation is the Consumer Affairs Agency's advice. Contracts over 1 month and over ¥50,000 fall under the cooling-off rules. Consider a second opinion too.

Misunderstanding 5|Before-and-after photos in adverts can be trusted

Under the Medical Advertising Guidelines (2018), before-and-after photos that do not meet the conditions (procedure, cost and risks stated alongside) are prohibited. Definitive claims of effect are also prohibited. Whether the risks are explained is your yardstick.

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Sources

  • Ministry of Health, Labour and Welfare, "Medical Advertising Guidelines" [医療広告ガイドライン] (Guidelines on Advertising of Medical and Dental Practice, Hospitals and Clinics, 2018)

https://www.mhlw.go.jp/stf/seisakunitsuite/bunya/kenkou_iryou/iryou/kokokukisei/index.html

  • Japanese Dermatological Association, "Guideline for the Management of Acne Vulgaris and Rosacea 2023" [尋常性痤瘡・酒皶治療ガイドライン2023]

https://www.dermatol.or.jp/uploads/uploads/files/guideline/

  • Consumer Affairs Agency, "Contract Disputes over Cosmetic Medical Services (application of cooling-off)" [美容医療サービスの契約トラブル]

https://www.caa.go.jp/policies/policy/consumer_transaction/

⚠️ Editorial note: the source URLs above were identified by search. Our working environment cannot reach go.jp domains, so the contents have not been checked against the text. Verify every source before publication and record who checked it and when.

About this article

What we share here are ideas and everyday practices passed down among people living in Japan, together with general information drawn from public sources. They are not official recommendations, and they are not professional instruction. Practices vary between households and regions.

This is general information. Results vary from person to person and depend on your own conditions and surroundings.

Please decide for yourself, using your own judgement, whether any of this suits your situation. We cannot accept responsibility for any damage, loss or injury arising from following this article.

Cosmetics are not medicines and are not meant to diagnose, heal or prevent any condition. If your skin reacts, stop using the product and see a dermatologist.

Sources

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