What are the common misunderstandings about scalp care?
This answer is a draft. It stays unpublished until legal review and source verification are complete.
"Scalp massage makes hair grow" and "blocked pores cause thinning hair" are claims heard the world over. In Japan, the drugstore shelf (Matsumoto Kiyoshi, Welcia, etc.) carries scalp products in three legal classes — cosmetics, quasi-drugs and medicines — and each is allowed to claim something different. Knowing the classes tells you what a product can realistically do.
Classes and what they may claim
| Class | Examples | Permitted claims |
|---|---|---|
| Cosmetic | Scalp lotion, scalp shampoo | Cleanses the scalp and hair, reduces dandruff and itching, keeps scalp and hair healthy (the list of 56 items) |
| Quasi-drug (医薬部外品 — a Japanese category between cosmetics and medicines; "medicated hair-growth tonic") | "hair-growth tonic" (育毛剤, ikumōzai), "medicated scalp" (薬用スカルプ) | Hair growth, thinning hair, itching, prevention of hair loss, promotion of hair growth, promotion of regrowth, dandruff, hair loss after illness or childbirth, hair nourishment (approved claims) |
| Medicine (Category 1 OTC or prescription) | Topical minoxidil (Category 1 OTC), finasteride (prescription) | Regrowth in androgenetic alopecia, slowing of progression |
| Medical care | AGA (male-pattern hair loss) clinics, dermatology | Diagnosis and medical care |
- "Regrowth" (発毛, hatsumō) is a claim reserved for medicines; cosmetics and quasi-drugs may not make it. The quasi-drug claim "promotion of regrowth" is distinguished as preventive wording.
- The Japanese Dermatological Association's "Guidelines for the diagnosis and management of male- and female-pattern hair loss, 2017" give topical minoxidil and oral finasteride (men) recommendation grade A, while scalp massage and most folk practices have a low grade or are not assessed.
- The scalp is generally described as producing more sebum than the T-zone of the face, and both over-washing and under-washing cause dandruff and itching (see the article on how often to shampoo).
[Verify] Check the permitted claims for each class against MHLW materials, and the guidelines against the Japanese Dermatological Association (2017 edition, or the latest if revised).
Misunderstanding 1｜Scalp massage makes hair grow
The guidelines place it as pleasant through better blood flow, but without sufficient evidence of an effect on regrowth. Massaging with the pads of the fingers, not the nails, is fine as a way to relax while washing.
Misunderstanding 2｜Blocked pores cause thinning hair
The main causes of male-pattern hair loss are hormones and heredity; sebum in the pores is generally described as not a main cause. Cleanliness is a given, but "wash the pores and hair grows" does not follow.
Misunderstanding 3｜Use a hair-growth tonic and hair grows back
The claims of a quasi-drug tonic are limited to "prevention" and "promotion". If regrowth is your aim, you need a medicine (Category 1 OTC topical minoxidil, etc.), which is sold only with a pharmacist's explanation. Some products may not be used by women or during pregnancy.
Misunderstanding 4｜Dandruff means you are dirty, so wash more often
Dandruff from dryness gets worse with over-washing. Greasy dandruff means excess sebum. If itching, redness or heavy dandruff persists, it may be seborrhoeic dermatitis or similar; see a dermatology clinic (covered by Japanese health insurance).
Misunderstanding 5｜More hair in the brush means buy a tonic straight away
Losing 50–100 hairs a day is normal. It also rises with the season (autumn). If there is a sudden increase, patchy loss, or visible scalp, the quickest route is a diagnosis at a dermatology clinic before buying a product on your own judgement.
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Sources
- Ministry of Health, Labour and Welfare (MHLW), "Scope of efficacy claims for quasi-drugs" [医薬部外品の効能効果の範囲] (hair-growth tonics)
https://www.mhlw.go.jp/stf/seisakunitsuite/bunya/kenkou_iryou/iyakuhin/keshouhin/index.html
- Japanese Dermatological Association, "Guidelines for the diagnosis and management of male- and female-pattern hair loss, 2017" [男性型および女性型脱毛症診療ガイドライン2017年版]
https://www.dermatol.or.jp/uploads/uploads/files/guideline/
- Ministry of Health, Labour and Welfare (MHLW), "Revision of the scope of efficacy claims for cosmetics" [化粧品の効能の範囲の改正について] (Yakushoku-hatsu 0721 No. 1)
https://www.mhlw.go.jp/file/06-Seisakujouhou-11120000-Iyakushokuhinkyoku/kesyouhin_hanni_20111.pdf
⚠️ Editorial note: the source URLs above were identified by search. Our working environment cannot reach go.jp domains, so the contents have not been checked against the text. Verify every source before publication and record who checked it and when.
About this article
What we share here are ideas and everyday practices passed down among people living in Japan, together with general information drawn from public sources. They are not official recommendations, and they are not professional instruction. Practices vary between households and regions.
This is general information. Results vary from person to person and depend on your own conditions and surroundings.
Please decide for yourself, using your own judgement, whether any of this suits your situation. We cannot accept responsibility for any damage, loss or injury arising from following this article.
Cosmetics are not medicines and are not meant to diagnose, heal or prevent any condition. If your skin reacts, stop using the product and see a dermatologist.
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