Non-silicone, sulphate-free, amino-acid based… how do you read the words on a shampoo label?
This answer is a draft. It stays unpublished until legal review and source verification are complete.
Japanese shampoo shelves are covered in appealing words: "non-silicone" (ノンシリコン), "sulphate-free" (サルフェートフリー), "amino-acid based" (アミノ酸系), "botanical" (ボタニカル). Most of the labelling is in Japanese only, so many people end up choosing by price and scent. This article explains what the words mean and how to read the ingredient list (全成分表示), which every product must carry.
The three families of cleansing agents
| Family | Ingredient names to look for | Cleansing power | Suits | Watch out |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Sulphate type (higher-alcohol sulphates) | Sodium laureth sulfate (ラウレス硫酸Na), sodium lauryl sulfate (ラウリル硫酸Na), sodium C14-16 olefin sulfonate (オレフィン(C14-16)スルホン酸Na) — the last is not a sulphate but cleans just as strongly | Strong | Oily scalp, heavy sweat or styling products, people who want a thorough wash | Over-strips dry or sensitive skin; colour fades faster. Not a safety problem |
| Amino-acid type | Sodium/TEA cocoyl glutamate (ココイルグルタミン酸Na／TEA), sodium lauroyl methylalanine (ラウロイルメチルアラニンNa), sodium cocoyl methyl taurate (ココイルメチルタウリンNa) | Gentle to medium | Dry or sensitive scalp, coloured or permed hair, daily washers | Lather feels thin, price is high. Styling products may not wash out fully |
| Betaine type (amphoteric) | Cocamidopropyl betaine (コカミドプロピルベタイン), lauramidopropyl betaine (ラウラミドプロピルベタイン) | Mildest | Children, sensitive skin. Also blended with other agents to soften their sting | Not enough cleansing power on its own |
| Soap type | Potassium soap base (カリ石ケン素地), potassium fatty acid salts (脂肪酸カリウム) | Medium to strong (alkaline) | Soap devotees | Alkalinity opens the cuticle and hair squeaks → needs an acidic rinse |
What the label words mean
| Label | Meaning | In practice |
|---|---|---|
| Non-silicone (ノンシリコン) | Contains no silicone (dimethicone, cyclopentasiloxane, etc.) | Silicone coats the hair and improves feel. There is no evidence it clogs scalp pores, and the Japan Cosmetic Industry Association and dermatologists see no safety problem. Fine hair or people wanting volume suit non-silicone; damaged or thick hair sits better with silicone — a matter of preference |
| Sulphate-free (サルフェートフリー) | No sulphate cleansing agents | Main agent is amino-acid or betaine type. Gentler, but "free" does not mean "safe" |
| Amino-acid based (アミノ酸系) | Amino-acid agents make up part of the cleansing base | Can be claimed even if only a small part, so judge by what follows "water" in the ingredient list |
| Botanical, organic (ボタニカル・オーガニック) | Contains plant-derived ingredients | No legal definition in Japan. The cleansing agents are usually synthetic. Plant extracts can themselves cause contact rashes |
| Mildly acidic (弱酸性) | pH around 5–6 | Same pH as scalp and hair. Most shampoos are mildly acidic, so it hardly sets a product apart |
| Medicated (薬用) — quasi-drug (医薬部外品, a Japanese category between cosmetics and medicines) | Contains an approved active ingredient (piroctone olamine, dipotassium glycyrrhizate, etc.) | Approved claim is "prevents dandruff and itching". Worth trying if you have dandruff or itch, but seborrhoeic dermatitis and the like belong at a dermatology clinic (covered by Japanese health insurance) |
| With hematin, keratin (ヘマチン・ケラチン配合) | Suggests hair "repair" | As a cosmetic, the permitted claim stops at "makes hair smooth". "Repair" wording is restricted under the Pharmaceuticals and Medical Devices Act (Japan's cosmetics and drugs law) |
- How to choose, in order: ① Scalp type (oily → sulphate type is fine; dry or itchy → amino-acid or betaine type) ② Hair concern (lack of volume → non-silicone; dryness and frizz → silicone or amino-acid type) ③ Check the two or three ingredients listed after "water" ④ Use one bottle and judge by your scalp (switch if itching or dryness appears).
- How you wash matters more: pre-rinse for 1–2 minutes, lather in your hands before it touches the scalp, move the scalp with your fingertips (not nails), rinse for twice as long as you washed, dry straight away. These five points change dandruff, itch and smell more than the brand does.
- Price: amino-acid agents are generally described as costing several times to ten times more than sulphates as raw materials, which is why a bottle costs ¥1,500–3,000. Sulphates are not bad; if your scalp is happy, they are the cheaper choice.
- Children: low-irritation betaine or amino-acid type that does not sting the eyes. Adult sulphate shampoos can strip too much.
- Persistent itch or dandruff: if switching shampoo brings no improvement in 2–4 weeks, see a dermatology clinic (possible seborrhoeic dermatitis or contact dermatitis).
[Verify] The classification of cleansing agents and the comparison of cleansing power are the general framework of cosmetic chemistry. Check the position on silicone safety against Japan Cosmetic Industry Association material.
Misunderstanding 1｜Silicone clogs scalp pores and is bad for hair
There is no evidence for this, and the Japan Cosmetic Industry Association and dermatologists see no safety problem. Choose non-silicone or not by whether you want volume or smoothness.
Misunderstanding 2｜Sulphate-free is gentle for everyone
Some people (oily scalp, heavy styling products) are not suited to gentle cleansing. It means "mild cleansing power", not "safe".
Misunderstanding 3｜If it says "amino-acid based", the main agent is amino-acid type
The claim can be made even when only a small part is amino-acid type. Judge by what comes after "water" in the ingredient list.
Misunderstanding 4｜Botanical or organic means kind to skin
There is no legal definition, and plant extracts can cause contact rashes. Looking at the cleansing agents is more reliable.
Misunderstanding 5｜Switching to an expensive shampoo will settle dandruff and itching
How you wash (pre-rinse, rinse, dry) has more effect, and persistent symptoms are a dermatologist's territory. Fix the washing before the brand.
---
Sources
- Japan Cosmetic Industry Association (JCIA), "List of cosmetic ingredient labelling names / Q&A on shampoo (safety of silicone)" [化粧品の成分表示名称リスト／シャンプーに関するQ&A（シリコンの安全性）]
https://www.jcia.org/user/public/knowledge/
- Ministry of Health, Labour and Welfare (MHLW), "Scope of efficacy or effects of quasi-drugs" [医薬部外品の効能又は効果の範囲] (medicated shampoo: prevents dandruff and itching)
https://www.mhlw.go.jp/
- Japanese Dermatological Association, "Dermatology Q&A: dandruff and seborrhoeic dermatitis" [皮膚科Q&A：フケ・脂漏性皮膚炎]
https://www.dermatol.or.jp/qa/
⚠️ Editorial note: the source URLs above were identified by search. Our working environment cannot reach go.jp domains, so the contents have not been checked against the text. Verify every source before publication and record who checked it and when.
About this article
What we share here are ideas and everyday practices passed down among people living in Japan, together with general information drawn from public sources. They are not official recommendations, and they are not professional instruction. Practices vary between households and regions.
This is general information. Results vary from person to person and depend on your own conditions and surroundings.
Please decide for yourself, using your own judgement, whether any of this suits your situation. We cannot accept responsibility for any damage, loss or injury arising from following this article.
Cosmetics are not medicines and are not meant to diagnose, heal or prevent any condition. If your skin reacts, stop using the product and see a dermatologist.
Sources
Tell us if this has changed
Approved contributions keep the contributor's name, shown in five languages.
Related questions
Other languages：日本語 ／ 简体中文 ／ 繁體中文 ／ 한국어
Value Village is not a government body. Always confirm procedures on the official site.
Written by Value Village from public sources. Nothing here is reproduced from another site.