Cotton, polyester, rayon, wool… how do I choose clothing fabrics?
This answer is a draft. It stays unpublished until legal review and source verification are complete.
The label says "cotton 65%, polyester 35%" (綿65% ポリエステル35%) or just "rayon" (レーヨン). Most people read the fibre names but buy without knowing how they affect comfort, washing and lifespan. Japanese labels give fibre names in kanji and katakana, so the table below includes the words to look for. Here is a guide to the main fibres, by situation.
Character of the main fibres
| Fibre (label) | Feel / moisture | Durability | Creasing / shrinkage | Washing | Good for | Weak points |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Cotton (綿) | Good. Highly absorbent | Medium–high | Creases; shrinks (2–5% on the first wash) | Home wash; hot water fine | Underwear, T-shirts, shirts, denim, towels | Slow to dry, fades |
| Linen / ramie (麻) | Cool; absorbs and releases moisture fast | High (stronger when wet) | Creases heavily; shrinks | Home wash | Summer clothes | Creasing, fading, first-wash shrinkage |
| Wool (毛) | Warm; absorbs and releases moisture; resists odour | Medium | Creases recover; shrinks (felting) | Hand wash or dry clean; no tumble dryer | Jumpers, coats, suits | Moths, shrinkage, pilling, itchiness |
| Silk (絹) | Smooth, highly absorbent, lustrous | Low–medium | Creases | Hand wash or dry clean | Blouses, scarves, underwear | Water spots, yellows in sunlight, discolours with sweat, price |
| Rayon / cupro (レーヨン・キュプラ) | Smooth, drapes, cool (made from wood pulp / cotton linter) | Low (weak when wet) | Shrinks, creases, water spots | Hand wash or dry clean recommended; no tumble dryer | Blouses, dresses, linings (cupro) | Weak in water, shrinkage, texture changes with washing |
| Lyocell (Tencel) (リヨセル) | Like rayon, slightly stronger | Medium | Shrinks less | Often hand-washable | Shirts, denim blends | Fuzzing |
| Polyester (ポリエステル) | Does not absorb sweat; dries fast; static | High | Crease-resistant; does not shrink | Home wash; tumble dryer fine | Sportswear, outerwear, uniforms, shirt blends | Holds odour, pilling (in blends), heat-sensitive (iron on low) |
| Nylon (ナイロン) | Smooth, light | Very high | Crease-resistant | Home wash | Outerwear, swimwear, tights, bags | Yellows with heat and sunlight, static |
| Acrylic (アクリル) | Warm like wool, light | Medium | Does not shrink | Home wash | Jumpers, scarves, blankets | Pills badly, static, heat-sensitive |
| Polyurethane (PU, spandex) (ポリウレタン) | Stretch | Deteriorates in 2–3 years (loses stretch, peels) | — | Heat-sensitive | Stretch blends (2–10%), leggings | Lifespan; degraded by heat and chlorine |
Choosing by situation
| Situation | Suitable fibres | Why |
|---|---|---|
| Underwear, loungewear | Cotton; cotton + a little polyurethane | Feel, moisture absorption |
| Sweating (sport, summer commute) | Polyester (wicking / quick-dry finish); cotton + polyester | Drying speed. All-cotton fabric turns cold when wet with sweat |
| Winter warmth | Wool, acrylic, wool blends, fleece (polyester) | Insulation |
| Travel, business trips | Polyester blends; wool (creases recover) | Crease-resistant, quick-drying |
| Formal | Wool (suits), silk, polyester (dresses) | Appearance |
| Children | Cotton; cotton + polyester | Skin, durability, easy washing |
| Allergies, sensitive skin | Cotton, silk | Avoid itchy wool and acrylic, and clammy polyester |
- Reading blends: "cotton 65% polyester 35%" combines cotton's feel with polyester's toughness and crease resistance. A cheap all-polyester blouse will not crease but is clammy in summer. "Polyurethane 3%" is there for stretch; expect the stretch to fade in a few years.
- Percentages are by weight: they do not tell you which fibre touches your skin (cupro lining with a polyester shell, for instance).
- Price and fibre: for the same design, wool, silk, linen and cotton are usually the most expensive, in that order; polyester and acrylic are cheap. Expensive does not mean better — what matters is whether it suits the use.
- Environment: synthetics shed microplastics (reduced with a laundry net or filter), cotton uses a lot of water, regenerated fibres come from wood — each has pros and cons, and wearing clothes for a long time helps most.
- Relationship with care labels: the rule is to follow the care label (Japan uses the international JIS L0001 symbols), not only the fibre (see our article on care labels). In particular, if rayon, wool or silk is labelled "do not wash", do not wash it at home.
[Verify] The fibre properties are the standard textile-science summary. Check the fibre names used on labels under the Household Goods Quality Labelling Act (綿 cotton, 毛 wool, 絹 silk, レーヨン rayon, ポリエステル polyester etc.) against Consumer Affairs Agency materials.
Misunderstanding 1｜Natural fibres are always better than synthetics
When you sweat, cotton turns cold and dries slowly; polyester is more comfortable. Choose by use.
Misunderstanding 2｜Polyester is a cheap, low-grade fibre
It is tough and crease-resistant, and ideal for travel, sport and uniforms. Its weak points are odour and clamminess.
Misunderstanding 3｜Rayon is natural, so I can wash it at home
Rayon is a regenerated fibre that is weak when wet and shrinks; if the label says do not wash, it is safer not to wash it at home.
Misunderstanding 4｜Wool can't go in the washing machine
If the label shows a hand-wash symbol, you can wash it on a delicates cycle. Shrinkage comes from friction and heat; a gentle cycle in cool water is fine.
Misunderstanding 5｜Stretch fabrics stretch, so they last longer
Polyurethane deteriorates in 2–3 years and loses its stretch. Think of stretch garments as consumables.
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Sources
- Consumer Affairs Agency, "Household Goods Quality Labelling Act: Textile Products Quality Labelling Regulations (fibre names and labelling)" [家庭用品品質表示法：繊維製品品質表示規程]
https://www.caa.go.jp/policies/policy/representation/household_goods/guide/fiber/
- Japan Chemical Fibers Association, "Types and characteristics of chemical fibres" [化学繊維の種類と特徴]
https://www.jcfa.gr.jp/
- Consumer Affairs Agency, "The new care labels (JIS L0001)" [新しい洗濯表示]
https://www.caa.go.jp/policies/policy/representation/household_goods/laundry_symbols/
⚠️ Editorial note: the source URLs above were identified by search. Our working environment cannot reach go.jp domains, so the contents have not been checked against the text. Verify every source before publication and record who checked it and when.
About this article
What we share here are ideas and everyday practices passed down among people living in Japan, together with general information drawn from public sources. They are not official recommendations, and they are not professional instruction. Practices vary between households and regions.
This is general information. Results vary from person to person and depend on your own conditions and surroundings.
Please decide for yourself, using your own judgement, whether any of this suits your situation. We cannot accept responsibility for any damage, loss or injury arising from following this article.
Follow the care label and the maker's instructions for any garment, shoe or bag. For expensive or sentimental items, ask a specialist cleaner or repairer.
Sources
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