What are the common misunderstandings about caring for oily skin?
This answer is a draft. It stays unpublished until legal review and source verification are complete.
Shine and excess sebum are a particular worry in humid East Asia, and in overseas communities the question "is more washing better?" comes up again and again. In Japan there is a clear line between what a cosmetic may claim and what belongs to a dermatologist, and this article follows that line. It also introduces a few everyday items, such as oil-blotting paper, that you will find in any Japanese drugstore.
What to base your decision on
| Item | Details |
|---|---|
| How often to wash | Twice a day, morning and evening, is the usual guide. More than that tends to cause dryness |
| Face wash | Wash with foam and rinse with lukewarm water (about 32–34°C / 90–93°F). Hot water strips too much sebum |
| Moisturising | Do not skip it. Many people choose low-oil gel or milky-lotion types |
| Sebum during the day | Press with oil-blotting paper (あぶらとり紙, aburatori-gami) or a tissue. Do not rub |
| Sebum and the seasons | Sebum secretion is generally described as rising with temperature, so the problem worsens in summer |
- What a cosmetic may claim is within the 56 items, such as "washes away sebum", "tightens the skin" and "removes skin lipids". "Suppresses sebum secretion" cannot be said of a cosmetic (it is in the territory of approved quasi-drug claims; a quasi-drug is a Japanese category between cosmetics and medicines).
- Recurring or inflamed acne is beyond the scope of cosmetics and is a matter for a dermatology clinic (covered by Japanese health insurance). The Japanese Dermatological Association publishes clinical guidelines for acne vulgaris.
[Verify] Check the 56 items against MHLW notice Yakushoku-hatsu 0721 No. 1, and the guidelines against the Japanese Dermatological Association "Guidelines for the Management of Acne Vulgaris and Rosacea 2023".
Misunderstanding 1｜Wash more often and the shine goes
Many people report that over-washing causes dryness and makes sebum more noticeable, not less. How you wash, and moisturising, matter more than how often.
Misunderstanding 2｜Oily skin does not need moisturiser
Water and oil are separate things. When water is lacking, the surface is described as shining with sebum while the skin underneath is dry. Moisturising with a light, "refreshing" (さっぱり) type is the standard approach.
Misunderstanding 3｜Blotting paper should take off all the oil
Taking too much leads to dryness. Most people press lightly on the T-zone only.
Misunderstanding 4｜An alcohol toner to tighten the skin solves it
It may feel fresh for a moment, but alcohol can cause dryness and irritation. Whether it suits you varies from person to person.
Misunderstanding 5｜Oily skin is just your constitution, so nothing helps
It changes with sleep, diet, season and hormones. If acne is involved, a dermatology clinic can prescribe medicines covered by health insurance. There is no need to keep struggling within the limits of cosmetics.
---
Sources
- Ministry of Health, Labour and Welfare, notice "Revision of the scope of cosmetic efficacy claims" [化粧品の効能の範囲の改正について] (Yakushoku-hatsu 0721 No. 1)
https://www.mhlw.go.jp/file/06-Seisakujouhou-11120000-Iyakushokuhinkyoku/kesyouhin_hanni_20111.pdf
- Japanese Dermatological Association, "Guidelines for the Management of Acne Vulgaris and Rosacea 2023" [尋常性痤瘡・酒皶治療ガイドライン2023]
https://www.dermatol.or.jp/uploads/uploads/files/guideline/
- Japanese Dermatological Association, "Dermatology Q&A — Acne" [皮膚科Q&A にきび]
https://www.dermatol.or.jp/qa/qa3/index.html
⚠️ Editorial note: the source URLs above were identified by search. Our working environment cannot reach go.jp domains, so the contents have not been checked against the text. Verify every source before publication and record who checked it and when.
About this article
What we share here are ideas and everyday practices passed down among people living in Japan, together with general information drawn from public sources. They are not official recommendations, and they are not professional instruction. Practices vary between households and regions.
This is general information. Results vary from person to person and depend on your own conditions and surroundings.
Please decide for yourself, using your own judgement, whether any of this suits your situation. We cannot accept responsibility for any damage, loss or injury arising from following this article.
Cosmetics are not medicines and are not meant to diagnose, heal or prevent any condition. If your skin reacts, stop using the product and see a dermatologist.
Sources
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