How do I choose shoes that won't hurt my feet? Tips for trying them on
This answer is a draft. It stays unpublished until legal review and source verification are complete.
"The size is right, but they hurt." "My shoes feel tight by evening." Feet differ not only in length but in width, instep height and toe shape. Japanese shoes are sized in centimetres of foot length, and many also carry a width code — "E, 2E, 3E" — that you may not have seen elsewhere. Here are tips for trying shoes on, and fixes for pain by cause.
How to try shoes on
| Step | What to do | Why |
|---|---|---|
| 1. Time of day | Evening or later (some people's feet swell by 0.5 to nearly 1 cm) | Fitted in the morning, tight by evening |
| 2. Socks | The socks you will wear with that shoe (thick if thick) | Sock thickness changes the fit by 0.5 cm |
| 3. Both feet | Left and right differ (by a few mm in most people), so fit the larger foot | Trying one shoe is a recipe for failure |
| 4. Heel | Push your heel back, then fasten laces or straps. Walk; the heel should not lift | Heel lifting = too long, or too wide |
| 5. Toes | 0.5–1 cm of room (sute-zun) beyond the longest toe. Toes can move | The foot slides forward about 1 cm when walking |
| 6. Width | The base of the little toe and big toe are not pressed from the sides. The instep is not squeezed | The wrong width causes bunions and calluses |
| 7. Walk | Walk around the shop for a few minutes; squat, try stairs (if there are any) | Standing still tells you nothing |
| 8. Measure your feet | Once a year, on the shop's foot gauge (adult feet change with age, weight and pregnancy) | "I've always been 24 cm" is not reliable |
Width codes
| Code | Meaning | Guide |
|---|---|---|
| JIS (Japan) | A to E, 2E (EE), 3E, 4E, F, G, in increasing width. E–2E is standard; 3E and above is wide | Set by foot girth (around the base of the big and little toes) and foot length |
| Overseas | B (women's standard), D (men's standard), W or EE (wide) etc. | Correspondence with Japanese codes is approximate |
| No code | Most fashion shoes and trainers have no width code | Check by trying on. Each brand uses a different last |
Causes of pain and what to do
| Symptom | Cause | What to do |
|---|---|---|
| Heel rubs, blisters | Heel lifts (too long or too wide); hard material | Heel pads; plasters or anti-blister tape beforehand; break leather in gradually (short wears first) |
| Pain at the base of the little toe or big toe | Too narrow | A wider width size; shoe stretcher (leather only); do not go up a size (it only gets longer) |
| Toes hit the front | Too short; not enough sute-zun; downhill walking or swelling | 0.5 cm larger; lace firmly to hold the foot back |
| Instep hurts | Low-cut instep; laces too tight | A higher-instep model; change the lacing (skip the eyelets over the instep) |
| Sole or heel of the foot hurts | Too little cushioning; too little arch support; worn too long | Insoles (see separate article); check sole wear |
| Tight in the evening | Swelling | Try on in the evening; shoes with adjustable laces or straps; rest with your feet raised |
| Calluses, corns | Repeated wear of shoes that are wrong in width or shape | Rethink your shoes; have them pared at a dermatology clinic |
- Children's shoes: check the size every 3–6 months (feet grow 1–2 cm a year). Buying big causes trips and foot deformity. Sute-zun 0.5–1 cm; firm heel, wide toe box, flexes at the ball of the foot.
- Heels: 3–5 cm is the usual guide for less strain on the foot. If your toes hurt from sliding forward, use a toe cushion.
- Buying online: try on unless you already know the same brand and model. Use shops that accept returns (see separate article).
- Ongoing foot problems: bunions, flat feet and splayed feet may not be solved by shoe choice alone. See an orthopaedic clinic (整形外科, foot surgery), and get measured at a specialist shoe shop with a certified shoe fitter.
[Verify] Check the swelling range, the sute-zun guide and the JIS foot-girth width classes against the shoe-fitter association (FHA) materials and JIS S5037.
Misunderstanding 1｜If the size (cm) matches, the shoe fits
Width, instep and heel hold must fit too, or it hurts. Check all four points when trying on.
Misunderstanding 2｜If the width is tight, go up a size
The shoe gets longer, the heel lifts, and you get a different pain. Try a wider width (2E, 3E) or another brand.
Misunderstanding 3｜Trying on in the morning is more accurate
Feet swell by evening, so an evening fitting is closer to real life.
Misunderstanding 4｜Leather stretches, so buy them tight
Width stretches a little; length does not. Without sute-zun your toes will keep hitting the front even after the leather gives.
Misunderstanding 5｜My foot size never changes
Age, weight, pregnancy and loss of muscle change foot length and width. Measure once a year.
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Sources
- Foot and Shoe Health Association (FHA), "Shoe-fitter tips for choosing shoes" [シューフィッターによる靴選びのポイント]
https://fha.gr.jp/
- Japanese Industrial Standards Committee, "JIS S5037: Shoe sizes (foot length and girth classes)" [JIS S5037：靴のサイズ]
https://www.jisc.go.jp/
- Japanese Orthopaedic Association, "Hallux valgus (bunions), foot pain and shoes" [外反母趾・足の痛みと靴]
https://www.joa.or.jp/public/sick/condition/hallux_valgus.html
⚠️ Editorial note: the source URLs above were identified by search. Our working environment cannot reach go.jp domains, so the contents have not been checked against the text. Verify every source before publication and record who checked it and when.
About this article
What we share here are ideas and everyday practices passed down among people living in Japan, together with general information drawn from public sources. They are not official recommendations, and they are not professional instruction. Practices vary between households and regions.
This is general information. Results vary from person to person and depend on your own conditions and surroundings.
Please decide for yourself, using your own judgement, whether any of this suits your situation. We cannot accept responsibility for any damage, loss or injury arising from following this article.
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