Cosmetics Rules in Southeast Asia | The ASEAN Cosmetics Directive and the Notification System

In this series on cosmetic regulations around the world, we turn this time to Southeast Asia. In regions such as Thailand, Vietnam, Malaysia, and Indonesia, which are becoming increasingly important export destinations for Japanese cosmetics, common rules are being created for the region as a whole, rather than country by country.

Agreement in 2003, applied from 2008

The foundation of ASEAN cosmetic rules is the Agreement on the ASEAN Harmonized Cosmetic Regulatory Scheme, signed on September 2, 2003. At its center is the ASEAN Cosmetic Directive (ACD), which has applied to cosmetics within the region since January 1, 2008. The 10 member countries at the time aimed to align their approaches to ingredient regulation and labeling.

“Notification,” not approval

Under the ACD, before placing a cosmetic product on the market, the responsible party, such as the manufacturer or importer, notifies the regulatory authority in the country where it will be sold. Rather than the government approving each product in advance, companies are responsible for safety, and authorities monitor products after they enter the market. However, because notification is not mutual recognition, products sold in multiple countries must be notified in each country.

ASEAN cosmetic rules combine “common standards within the region” with “country-by-country notification.” The ingredient lists and approach to labeling are in many ways based on EU cosmetic regulations, and also have points in common with Japan’s system.

Ingredients set out in annexes

The ACD includes annexes that specify ingredients prohibited from use, ingredients that may be used with restrictions, and permitted colorants, preservatives, UV filters, and other substances. The idea of listing “what may be used” and “what may not be used” is also shared with Japan’s two lists under the Standards for Cosmetics and EU Cosmetic Regulation as well. Last time, we introduced Korea’s Cosmetics Act.

Reference: ASEAN Secretariat, “General Information Booklet on ASEAN Harmonized Cosmetic Regulatory Scheme”; Agreement on the ASEAN Harmonized Cosmetic Regulatory Scheme (2003)

—The Value Village Editorial Team