How Are Ingredients Allowed in Cosmetics Decided? | Two Lists in the “Standards for Cosmetics”

The full ingredient list is shown on the back of cosmetic containers (How to Read the Full Ingredient List). So who decides what ingredients may be used in cosmetics, and how? In Japan, the foundation is the Ministry of Health, Labour and Welfare’s “Standards for Cosmetics.”

In 2001, from “Prior Approval” to “Corporate Responsibility”

The Standards for Cosmetics were established as Ministry of Health and Welfare Notification No. 331 in September 2000 and came into effect in April 2001. Before that, the system centered on the government individually checking ingredients used in cosmetics. With this revision, regulation was substantially reviewed, and along with mandatory full ingredient labeling, the approach shifted to one in which companies that manufacture and sell cosmetics are responsible for confirming ingredient safety.

Two Lists

• Negative List —A list of ingredients that must not be included in cosmetics, and ingredients with upper limits on the amounts that may be included.
• Positive List —For the three categories of preservatives, ultraviolet absorbers, and tar colors, only listed substances may be used, and only within the specified ranges.

One list sets out “what must not be used,” while the other limits “what may be used.” The Standards for Cosmetics combine these two approaches. In particular, preservatives, ultraviolet absorbers, and tar colors follow a system in which usable substances are decided in advance.

Differences from Overseas Rules

The EU Cosmetics Regulation also has annexes that set out prohibited substances, restricted substances, and permitted preservatives, ultraviolet absorbers, and colorants (Reading the EU Cosmetics Regulation). Even if the basic approach is similar, the ingredients listed and the upper limit values differ by country and region. For how ingredient names are written, see the relationship between labeling names and INCI names is also worth reading.

Reference: Ministry of Health, Labour and Welfare, “Standards for Cosmetics” (Ministry of Health and Welfare Notification No. 331 of 2000)

—The Value Village Editorial Team